The Lake District, Patagonia, Argentina

Suzy and I hired a car in Bariloche for 4 days and headed up north to San Martin de los Andes, San Junin de los Andes, Alumine, Villa Pehuenia (for lago Alumine) and back down to Villa la Angostura. We drove (yes, I drove too!) around 900k along some tarmaced but mainly "ripio" roads. Ripio means gravel in Argentina. We were in for a bumpy ride. The hazards we met included herds of cows - just sitting in the middle of the road; horses; and "4x4 only" access as well as the expected snow and mountains. There was hardly any car traffic and so prepared me perfectly for driving upon my return to London.

The area really is outstandingly beautiful and I can truly say that my pictures do not do it justice. The view of the lakes around San Martin de los Andes nearly had me in tears - a weird overwhelming sensation on seeing such a beautiful view....I'm not usually that emotional! And they just got better and better. Marcelo (my friend from Buenos Aires) had told us not to miss Lago Alumine and he was right. It was the only thing that came close to being on Antarctica. There were 360 degree views for miles and miles of lakes and more lakes, volcanoes covered in black earth with patches of newly fallen snow and across the other side - the active volcanoes of Chile.

It was spectacular. Stunning. Beautiful.

And then we went to Uruguay....

El Chalten, Argentina

The 9 hr trek from El Pilar and up to view some horribly not worth the fear and snow laguna at the top and back down to a beautiful Laguna Capri was long and hard.

I think that when we set off neither Suzy or I had any idea we'd be trudging knee deep in snow, skating on icy hills on a cliff edge with winds strong enough to blow us off. There were times when we literally had to stop in our snowtracks, crouch down and pray that the long gust abated so we could hurridly make some progress before the next one nearly blew us off.

It's the only time on my trip when I've thought that maybe a debtors meeting would have been preferable if a little less adventurous.

The laguna at the top was pretty, but we could hardly see if for the snow being blown straight into our eyes and the silly angle we had to anchor ourselves at for fear of being blown away back down into the arse end of no-where (no, it's not a pretty little touristy town) El Chalten.

I guess I sort of feel I "achieved" but I will never again do such a silly trek. However, the walk up and walk down (so just take out the 2 hrs in the middle) were really beautiful and enjoyable and not anywhere near as dangerous. Seeing an Eagle at such close proximity was really special too.

Oh the "Las Malvinas son Argentinas" was a sign (seen everywhere in Patagonia) that was right next to the immigration station in Argentina on our way in from Chile to El Chalten.

Torres del Paine Chile

Antarctica

Suzy and I headed down to the port in Ushuaia exhausted. Everything in Latin America seems to take far longer than ever expected so we were running around all day booking bus tickets, hostels, buying warm clothing etc. We took some sea sickness tablets so really the first few days on the boat were a bit of a blur. It was a bit like a saga holiday there were so many old people there - albeit very impressive old people. The average age of the 74 passengers was 59. The doctor onboard was 26. I think he was terrified.
The crew were absolutely fantastic. I've never met such a bunch of people who work so seamlessly as a team. They must have been exhausted as the season runs from mid November until end March and the day the boat docks in Ushuaia around 9am it leaves the same day at 4pm so they only get a couple of hours off. They were also incredibly knowledgeable about Antartica and the waiters seems to have the most amazing balance.

I cannot really describe how beautiful, remote and wild I found everything and the photos seem not to do it justice. What I can do is recommend you to go and visit yourselves. Antarctic Dream was the boat we went on and I couldn't recommend them more.

As well as the obvious penguins, seal lions, whales etc there were lots of huge birds (up to 3m wing span) which really captured my interest also. That was probably helped along by the rather sexy chilean ornothologist who worked as the expedition staff leader onboard.

There are also a few bases out there. An English base with 4 (weird and dull) women; a chilean base with 8 navy and air force officers who have built a bar - I can honestly say I did not expect to be drinking pisco with Chilean officers in the Antarctic. There was also the opportunity to swim on an island with a volcano that at high tide warms up the water. It was low tide when we got there so only 4 people took a dip. I couldn't feel my hands and feet as it was so (now regrettably) I gave it a miss.

I can honestly say that my 11 day trip (2 1/2 there and 2 1/2 back on the dreaded Drake passage and 5 actually in Antarctica) have been the most fascinating of the whole year and I hope one day I'll have the opportunity to go back. Perhaps I'll wait until sea sickness tablets are more effective!

Tierra del Fuego National Park, Ushuaia

I finally made it into this absolutely stunning National Park which I had viewed yesterday from the fearful heights of Monte Susana. It wouldn't have been scary except for the fact that for some reason I had become all too happy with my advances in equestrian acquaintance and rode up the cliff side on Emperador. So terrifying was the experience I do not have any photos and I definitely screamed at one point. However the view was probably the most beautiful I've ever seen. Suzy managed to be less scared - in fact - she enjoyed it - and took photos so I'll post some of hers soon. In the meantime here is a close up of what I could see from up there.

We did about a 10 mile walk around the park today. At one point we even saw and heard a woodpecker. If I'm honest I only knew what it was because of the sound. It was beautiful and as soon as I saw it I was in awe. It was a beautiful walk and I've had a lovely day. Here are some photos from inside the National Park at the end of the world, including the most southernly post office.

Trelew + Gaiman

On Tuesday I took the bus to Trelew and went to an interesting Palentology museum there. I then boarded a bus to Gaiman, a Welsh colony but forgot to get off as I was so engrossed in my book. It's not so much as forgot as wasn't told we were about to turn around as we were at the end of the line. It was pouring with rain in true Welsh style and I couldn't see out of the bus anyway. So back at Trelew I decided to go back again. It gave me enough time to go to the "oldest Welsh teahouse in Argentina". A claim to fame if ever I heard one and wander in the wrong direction over a creepy bridge before I decided it was best to get out of the Weird rather than wonderful Welshness and back to Trelew to meet a new friend from Slovakia for a beer. And enjoyable if wet day spent mainly on buses when my plan had been mainly to avoid them as the following day was my 30 hour bus journey. You win some, you lose some.