Leticia hostel and boat from Tabatinga to Manaus photos

Peru, Colombia and Brazil all in one day.

These pictures show Peru, Colombia and Brazil from a boat connecting the three countries. I flew from Bogota to Leticia still in Colombia right on the border with Peru and Brazil. It's quite a dodgy town. At the airport for some reason I was the only gringo let through without having to pay for an extortionate tourist charge, and that was even after I had a chat with the official. I befriended two aussies and we walked the rather too long walk into town to Hostel Mahahtu. It was a nice setting but the owner was a dickhead. After two days I finally managed to book my 4 day boat trip to Manaus (where I am writing this from). I was terrified. There were reports of theft, violance, delays of up to weeks with breakdowns and all this when I was supposed to hang my own hammock up in a cargo ship and stay there for 4 days. It was cheap. About 100 US dollars including food for 4 days. Thankfully I met a nice English boy Chris in the queue who then saved me a space next to his hammock. This space got smaller and smaller as more and more people arrived. I befriended an older Brazilian lady who took it upon herself to look after me thankfully. It would have taken a while otherwise to figure out that the loud bell meant food was being served, that the loud horns meant we were approaching port and that lights on could mean anything from alighting passengers / onions / bananas or military checks.

There were only about 10 gringoes aboard but unusually many of them are solo travellers and a really good bunch of people. After many many card games, laughs, drinks, some vomit and plenty of stories we arrived in Manaus.

We all checked into the same hostel, hot, tired and sweaty. The next day the aussie girl Catelyn and I booked to go on a jungle tour the following day - that will be the next post. Manaus is a pretty busy, hot city in the middle of the amazon. Weird place.

Villa de Leyva, Colombia

Villa de Leyva is a cute little town in Colombia with pretty waterfalls. Heading onto Bogota tomorrow. Nirmal will head back to Venezuela. We've had a pretty active few weeks together but I will have time to recuperate on a hammock down the rio negro and into Brazil.

La Ciudad Perdida

So on Sunday morning we left bright and early to go to the pueblo called Machete Pelado. It used to be called Mamey after the fruit, but 20 something years ago so many people killed each other by machete due to cocaine wars that it was renamed....We started the trek up to La Ciudad Perdida and all was good. It rained hard, and we finally made it around 6pm to our camp. The mules however had got stuck the other side of the river. I found out the next day, having overheard a conversation between two guides that the mule man had got drunk and forgotten to tie the mules up, so lost them and consequently lost our food. They only reappeared at 1pm the next day. So we set off very late and didn't make it to camp 2 before it got dark so stayed somewhere very very basic having not had any lunch and dinner was again very late. Day three began with less enthusiasm and a slight disdain for the useless guide but our group was great and we rallied together and had a laugh - mainly at the guides expense. There were many river crossings, some waist deep. They were actually quite nice as they kept us cool for at least 10 minutes. The trek was long, hot and pretty difficult and quite hairy at times.

The worst moment was on the way back we had to cross by "cable car" which is more or less a wooden cart on a pulley that is operated by two guys. You can see a picture of it above - in the sun - on the way there, when the river was low enough for us to cross through the river, rather than over it. On our way back there was torrential rain and the river was raging, it was dark and wet. I found out that quite a few people pissed themselves with fear, and many other girls cried. For the first time on the trip I felt a little more hard! I just didn't look down. But anyway I digress. Nirmal couldn't see a thing as he was wearing glasses and with the rain they were all steamed up. At the other end there is a sheer drop down a cliff and into the river. He crossed infront of me and I saw him go to get out of the side - onto AIR - rather than the v. small ledge and I just heard the guide scream "Nirmal NOOOOOOOOOOOOO" and thankfully he put his foot back in and got out the front, in some sort of safety. I actually thought he was going to die!

We celebrated in style when we got back to Taganga. We spent the day on the beach today with Carlos - the guide who shouted to Nirmal not to kill himself, and coincidentally he'd also taken him to hospital two weeks previously when he had severe dehydration. Just before we got in the sea he said "I'm not a v. good swimmer, so I can't save your life here too Nirmal". Ah a Colombian with a great sense of humour. We loved him.

It took us time to rest up, get clean and dry and we're about to head to a night bus to San Gil for some more adventure. We're going to try spelunking on my birthday - whatever that may be!

Alcatraz Tour - whatever were we thinking

So Nirmal, the German guy and I decided to go on a trip to La Playa Blanca. We were sold a tour that sounded too good to be true at the hostel. We didn't know the company was called Alcatraz until we got to the boat. Never go on a tour that is named after a prison is all I can say on this one. Awful. Awful.

Moving South. First stop Cartagena

So, I met a nice couple from NYC in Panama and we were on the same flight to Cartagena which was great as I really didn't feel safe in that city so we got a cab together to my hotel first, where Nirmal was waiting for me. Nice welcome, with a few beers then to bed as it was pretty late. Next day wondered around the city. It's very pretty but full of prostitutes and cocaine.

We went to Islas de Rosario which I am sure would be nice if the hawkers left you in peace to enjoy the playa blanca. The only way we got them to leave us alone was by getting a massage on the beach. Not too bad a way to spend the time. But the boat journey over there was awful. Basically 8 hrs on a boat for 1 1/2 hrs on an ok beach. I'd chose Bocas del Toro anytime.

Following day I spent pretty much in bed or the bathroom. The guy opposite us ended up in hospital due to so many bathroom trips so I'm counting myself lucky. I was happy to leave Cartagena and come to Taganga. Tomorrow we're starting the trek to La Ciudad Perdida. Should be fun.

Panama City

This morning I went on a tour of the city. We went to this place of worship - Baha'i - is the religion. They believe that 7 religions all based on the same theories can worship / meditate together. It originated in Iran. It was a cool building with amazing views and we were given jelly and ice-cream at the end. No fee or donations are permitted.

We then went onto Casco Viejo which is the prettier part of town. I was really amazed by all the sky-scrappers too and the enormous shopping malls they have here.

The most fascinating part was the canal. The ships that pass are truely enormous and the gates that are used in the locks are the original gates from 100 years ago. It really was an incredible feat.

The old ruin church is in the Old Panama City, which is a few kms away and now just ruins.

The gold altar is in the Casco Viejo of Panama City and the Panamanians managed to keep this gold away from the pirates (Capitan Morgan etc) by hiding it in low tide water and what remained they painted black and fooled the pirates.

The other amusing thing I learnt is that in the water near the canal (but the wrong side) there is a sunken German submarine. You can just see the top of it at high tide. It was sent there in WWII to destroy the canal, but it got stuck when the tide went out. Brilliant.

I also learnt who Nunez de Balboa was on this tour. After this trip when I go on the Madrid metro I'll be so much better informed.